Adirondack Almanack: January 2010

Sunday, January 31, 2010

More on Adirondack Carries and Gauge Readings

Several questions arose after last month’s post regarding carries on private land and interpreting gauge readings. A number of concerns noted situations where paddlers were on a LAKE and then got out of their boats on privately owned shores or docks. From everything I have read or heard, the discussions regarding the public’s rights of passage are focused on RIVERS. If a river is navigable—and it’s not always clear how this is defined—and it flows through private lands, the issue is when and in what manner a paddler can carry around obstructions that are encountered.

Some obstructions are “natural” — shallow water levels (e.g., shoals), downed trees or branches, beaver dams, and rapids that are too steep or congested for one to paddle safely. Other obstructions are man-made—dams, low-water bridges or road crossings, narrow culverts, fences/cables, and miscellaneous debris such as metal bars. With the exceptions of dams, most obstructions do not come into play when paddling a lake. As such, I see no reason why a paddler, under normal circumstances, would need to “carry” on the shores of a lake or, for that matter, along the banks of an unobstructed river. To do so without permission is to risk being charged with trespass.

Why my caveat about “normal circumstances”? I can see a number of situations that could lead to a paddler going onto private land without permission, with the hope that the landowner would be understanding. These include severe weather (lightning, high winds) and significant injury/illness and perhaps some miscellaneous things such as a bathroom break for a young child who just can’t wait any longer. Even so, such use of private lands needs to be as brief and un-invasive as possible.

Another question was why would river levels at one point in a river be different elsewhere along the river. River gauges provide a measure of the river’s flow at a set point, either in feet and inches—how deep the river is at the gauge site—or in cubic feet per second – the volume of water flowing past the gauge site. The “cfs” measure allows you to compare different rivers more easily—a river with 4,000 cfs will clearly have a lot more water in it than one with 2,000 cfs.

The “feet” measure is more dependent on the width of the river at the gauge site. For one river, a reading of 4 feet might indicate a low, summertime flow while another river at 4 feet could be very high. Visit this link to see actual graphs of water levels.

Let’s look at some real examples of how gauge readings may not correspond to actual river levels.

1) The Hudson River gauge at North Creek reads 3,500 cfs and someone wants to start at Newcomb and paddle to North Creek. Along the way, the Goodnow, Cedar, Indian, and Boreas Rivers flow into the Hudson, each contributing some volume of water. While the North Creek gauge reads 3,500 cfs, the section below Newcomb would have much less flow.

2) Someone wants to paddle the Permanent Rapids section of the Saranac and sees that the gauge at Plattsburgh reads 4 feet. There are about a half-dozen hydropower dams between Permanent Rapids and Plattsburgh. Will there be enough water to get down Permanent Rapids? It’s hard to say, as the dams may be holding back or releasing water.

3) The Raquette River gauge at Piercefield reads 5.50 feet and you can see that the dam there is releasing water. The first several rapids are at a good level. Then you reach a 2-mile long floodplain and then a 6-mile long floodplain. Each section acts like a sponge, with water spreading out in the nearby wetlands. The next rapid (Moosehead) could be pretty low as it is in a wide section of the river while the one after that (Moody Falls) could be quite high as it’s in a very narrow ravine.

Graphic: USGS graph of this week's Hudson River levels at North Creek

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IRS Volunteers Offer Free Tax Return Preparation Program

The Internal Revenue Service's Volunteer Income Tax Assistance Program (VITA) offers free tax help to families and individuals whose household income is below $50,000. Trained community volunteers can help with determining your eligibility for special credits like the Earned Income Tax Credit and Child Tax Credit. In addition to free tax return preparation assistance, the program also offers free electronic filing (e-filing).

Those who take part in the e-filing program will receive their refunds in half the time it would take through traditional paper filing.

For more information or to make an appointment contact Warren County Head Start at 793-3624.

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Saturday, January 30, 2010

Saranac Lake Winter Carnival Memories Submissions Sought

Hungry Bear Publishing is seeking essays and photos for an upcoming book of favorite memories of the Saranac Lake Winter Carnival, Publisher Andy Flynn told the the weekly Saranac Lake Winter Carnival Committee meeting January 20th. Titled “Saranac Lake Winter Carnival Memories,” the project will help raise fund for the Committee.

“This will be a book by the community, for the community,” Flynn, who will collect the submissions and be the editor of the project, said in a press release to the Almanack. “Since the Winter Carnival is the most community-oriented festival I’ve ever seen, this book must reflect the heart and soul of Saranac Lake. It needs to be written by the community.”

Here is the rest of Flynn's announcement:

“Saranac Lake Winter Carnival Memories” will be a memory book, not a complete history of the Saranac Lake Winter Carnival, which traces its roots to a small festival in 1897 during the tuberculosis-curing days. The Pontiac Club organized and hosted the event during the early years. The Ice Palace , a long-held Winter Carnival tradition, was first built for the 1898 Carnival, when hundreds of visitors traveled to Saranac Lake for the festivities by train.

“The Committee was very excited to learn of Andy's plans,” said Jeff Dickson, Chairman of the Saranac Lake Winter Carnival Committee. “Winter Carnival is all about the creation of memories and everyone who has ever attended has some. Unfortunately, most of them get lost with the passage of time. This book’s value to us as a fundraiser is wonderful, and the personal history that it will present is even more exciting.”

Every good story has a theme. Residents are asked to pick one memorable moment from a past Saranac Lake Winter Carnival, good or bad, and explain why it was so memorable. Give details, give names. Describe the scene. How did it affect you or others? Were you a king or queen? If you choose to write about a Winter Carnival artifact, explain where you got it or how it was used and submit a photo.

“If you ever wanted to have your essay or photo published in a book, this is your chance,” Flynn said. “In return for the community’s donation of memories, we will donate 10 percent of the book’s proceeds to the Saranac Lake Winter Carnival Committee to help ensure that this annual event stays around for a very long time.”

People may submit essays of no longer than 450 words and/or a maximum of two photographs. Poems and illustrations are also accepted. The inside pages will be black and white. Entry/permission forms and Rules & Directions are available as PDF downloads at www.HungryBearPublishing.com or by contacting Andy Flynn at 40 McClelland St. , Saranac Lake , NY 12983, (518) 891-5559, or email at adkattic@yahoo.com. Entry/permission forms must be filled out and sent via snail mail to Hungry Bear Publishing, while essays and photos must be sent via email. Specifications are listed on the Rules & Direction form.

“Saranac Lake Winter Carnival Memories” will be released in the fall of 2010, just in time for the Christmas shopping season. The deadline for submissions is April 30, 2010.

Cover photos for the book were provided by Mark Kurtz Photography, of Saranac Lake . Mark Kurtz is the official photographer for the Saranac Lake Winter Carnival. One photo shows the fireworks display over the 2008 Ice Palace , and the other photo shows one of the famous Lawn Chair Ladies, Saranac Laker Sue Grimm, in action during the 2009 Gala Parade.

Based in Saranac Lake, Hungry Bear Publishing produces community-based publications and programs promoting the heritage and towns of the Adirondack region. In 2008, the company was awarded a Certificate of Commendation from the Upstate History Alliance for the Adirondack Attic History Project, which Andy Flynn founded in 2003 to actively preserve Adirondack history by collecting artifact-based, human-interest stories. Those stories have been compiled into the five-part “Adirondack Attic” book series. Hungry Bear Publishing also produces the Meet the Town community guide series and most recently published the re-print version of “Mostly Spruce and Hemlock,” the classic history of Tupper Lake by Louis Simmons, a project that was a fundraiser for the Goff-Nelson Memorial Library.

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Chilly Adirondack Mornings and Frosted Window Panes

Last week we had several clear nights, where the stars spangled the heavens and a swelling crescent moon sailed across the skies. Each successive night was colder than the last, dropping from a mild 24 degrees Fahrenheit to a chilly -9 by the weekend. The air was still, and the world silent, except for the late night choruses of our resident coyotes. When dawn creeped over the mountain tops and crested the trees, my porch windows revealed an artistry that only Mother Nature could provide: fern frost.

I suspect that many of us simply grumble at the sight of frost on our windows, muttering under our breath while we scrape it off the windshield of the car so we can get to work without taking out other vehicles along the way. Despite the nuisance frost can cause (and the statement it makes about the insulation of your house), I think that most of us, at least once in our lives, have paused to take in the remarkable beauty of the graceful feathers that sweep across the glass. How delicate they are, how graceful, how fragile.

So I thought I’d take a cruise through the internet to figure out just how these icy delights are formed. After all, there must be some sort of magic behind these feathery shapes. It turns out to be a pretty simple matter, and the windows at my house make a perfect canvas.

First, you need a window. Not a fancy, schmancy energy efficient window (no worries about that at my house). A single pane of glass, poorly insulated, is just the ticket. Then you need a very cold night, the kind of night where there are no clouds, no wind, and the temperature plummets. The final ingredient is a moderately moist indoor environment. Install your cheap glass window so that one side is outside in the cold, and the other side is inside where it is moist. Turn off the lights and go to bed.

While you are sleeping, the magic begins. When cold air and warmer moist air clash (the surface of your window), moisture condenses out of the air, forming tiny droplets (like dew) on the adjacent surface, in this case the window glass. Chilling continues and these droplets freeze. More moisture condenses on top of these ice crystals, and then it freezes as well. This cycle repeats throughout the night, the fingers of ice growing as each layer is laid down. Small imperfections in the glass, scratches, or even dust (not in my house, cough, cough), can all influence the shapes made as the ice/frost forms.

The next morning you rise from your toasty warm bed and schlep out to the kitchen. As you contemplate breakfast and the need to walk the dog, you glance at the thermometer and shudder. Then you remember your experiment and you rush to your strategically-located window of cheap glass. Since the night remained cloudless, and you rose as with the sun, the firey orb is now sending its golden fingers to gild the crystalline edges of the feathery ferns etched across the window’s surface.

Is there any better way to start a day than to witness the ephemeral art the frost faeries left as a token of their goodwill?

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Friday, January 29, 2010

This Week's Adirondack Web Highlights

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Inside the Adirondack Museum's Boat Collection

“Hall’s Boat Corporation is not just a center for wooden boat conservation, but a center for wooden boat lovers,” says Steve Lamando, the owner of the historic Lake George marina.

Every month, Reuben Smith, who oversees wooden boat building and restoration at Hall’s, offers free wooden boat clinics, and every summer members of the Antique and Classic Boat Society (based in Clayton) gather at the marina for receptions and banquets.

Hall’s staff reaffirmed its commitment to the preservation of wooden boats and to those who prize them in mid-November, when it hosted a tour of the Adirondack Museum’s boat collections with curator Hallie Bond.

“Reuben Smith, Hallie Bond and I were talking about how we could foster a stronger relationship between Lake George and the Adirondack Museum, and we decided this trip would be a good start,” Lamando said.

Hall’s Boat Corporation views the museum as an educational resource, said Reuben Smith, whose father, boat builder and novelist Mason Smith, is married to Hallie Bond.

“It’s a resource for our customers, for our wooden boat builders, and, as we develop into an educational center, for students,” added Lamando.

According to Hallie Bond, the Adirondack Museum owns “one of the largest, finest collections of inland pleasure craft anywhere. It’s a very nice, representative collection, but we specialize in boats made and used in the Adirondacks. In the 19th century, the Adirondack region was where it was at for small rowing pleasure craft.”

In addition to telling the stories of how people lived, worked, relaxed and made art in the Adirondacks, the Adirondack Museum is, Bond said, an “inland maritime museum,” a fact made evident in the lobby itself, whose focal point is an Idem class sloop, built in the early 1900s for racing on the St. Regis Lakes.

Bond’s tour began in the building housing the museum’s boats and boating collection.

Naturally, the collection is dominated by Adirondack guide-boats, those light-weight, portable boats indigenous to the region, which also happen to be one of the region’s greatest contributions to civilization.

But Adirondack boating is not limited to guide-boats, as Bond’s tour made clear.

The collection includes, for instance, the kayaks and canoes whose near-universal popularity began with the American Canoe Association’s gatherings on Lake George in the 1880s, which the museum highlights in one of its exhibits.

Some thirty or forty canoeists attended the first Canoe Congress on Lake George and virtually every type of modern canoe was represented; canvas, wooden, clinker-built and smooth skinned; some were decked and sailed. There were contests for racing, paddling, sailing, and dumping, the latter being a contest in which the canoeist paddles out to and around a stake boat and on the return, at a given signal, dumps his canoe, rights it, and gets back in.

The prize for winning a race open to canoes of all types was a canoe built by St. Lawrence River boat builder John Henry Rushton.

Rushton saw the Lake George congress as an opportunity to attract new business and develop new ideas. One of those ideas came from Judge Nicholas Longworth, who wanted a better sailing version of Rushton's Rob Roy, the decked wood canoe whose design was derived from the kayak. The result was the Diana, a Princess type of sailing canoe, commonly regarded as one of Rushton's most beautiful boats.

The Diana is also on exhibit, in a display called the “Poor Man’s Yacht.” On top of the Diana is a striped, cotton canvas canoe tent, also from Rushton’s shop, demonstrating how the canoes were used not simply for cruising, but as portable camps.

At about the same time that he was building boats for the founders of the American Canoe Association, Rushton built the first of several lightweight canoes for George Washington Sears, whose articles in "Forest Stream" published under the name of "Nessmuk" would popularize both wilderness paddling and Rushton’s own canoes.

The most famous of those canoes, the Sairy Gamp, is also on display.

According to Hallie Bond, Rushton said of the 10.5 pound canoe, "if Nessmuck tired of it as a canoe, he could use it as a soup dish."

Bond was responsible for persuading author Christine Jerome, who retraced Nessmuck’s route through the Adirondacks in 1990, to use a Kevlar replica of the Sairy Gamp made by local boat builder Pete Hornbeck. That boat, too, is on display.

The group then examined George Reis’s El Lagarto, the Lake George speedboat that won Gold Cups in 1934, 1935 and 1936, before entering the museum’s storage facility.

The museum owns more than 200 boats, only a portion of which can be displayed at any one time. The rest are stored in the Collections Storage and Study Center, located near the museum but difficult to find. “We didn’t want it to be too conspicuous,” said Bond.

The facility contains boats too large to be displayed, such as the beautifully restored 1927, 30 ft Fay and Bowen runabout that once belonged to Camp Echo on Raquette Lake, as well as boats that may never be restored but are preserved for research.

Those boats include a Lake George rowboat built by Henry Durrin and the Hornet, a 28 ft ice boat built on Lake Champlain and brought to Lake George in the 1930s, as well as Merle and Elisabeth Smith’s 23 ft long Yankee class ice boat built by John Alden Beals.

Bond also showed the group a boat that I’ve waited years to see, less for its aesthetic qualities than its historical interest: a fiberglass guide-boat built in the Adirondacks in the early 1960s.

By the 1960s, it appeared to many that the only way to ensure the survival of the Adirondack guide-boat was to turn to synthetic material.

John Gardner, in many ways the father of the wooden boat-making revival, wrote in the 1963, “The guide boat might seem to be nearly finished, a thing of nostalgic memory and a museum piece were it not for its recrudescence in plastic.”

At the time Gardner was writing (the piece appeared in the Maine Coast Fisherman) the only wooden guide boat maker still working was Willard Hanmer. A year earlier, Tom Bissell opened the Bissell Manufacturing Company in Long Lake to make what he called Adirondack Fiberglass Boats.

He had grown up with guide boats made by one of the region’s most renowned guides and boatbuilders, Warren Cole. His grandfather opened a Long Lake hotel called Endion in 1888 across the lake from Cole’s boat shop; where his father spent hours as a young boy watching Cole work. He still owns one of Cole’s boats purchased by his grandmother in 1900.

Bissell bought the fiberglass boat company from Fox Connor, whose family owned one of the region’s oldest great camps and was who manufacturing them in Ossining at the family-owned Allcock Company, makers of have-a-heart traps. Their model, which Bissell continued to make, was based on a boat designed by Wallace Emerson for fishermen in Connor’s family.

Bissell, now in his seventies, a retired school teacher and former supervisor of Long Lake, left the guide-boat business early, despite support from Gardner and people like Kenneth Durant, who devoted the second half of his life to researching the history of the guide-boat. At the time, Bissell recalled, working with fiberglass posed health hazards.

But his effort kept the guide-boat alive as a functioning vessel rather than just a museum piece, and helped ensure that people were still rowing them when young craftsmen like Reuben Smith’s father, Mason Smith, and his uncle Everett Smith emerged to revitalize wooden boat building.

The Adirondack Museum’s collection of guide-boats played no small role in that renaissance, and according to Reuben Smith, it remains a source of inspiration for builders – and future owners - of boats of all types.

Photo: George Reis driving El Lagarto. Courtesy of Adirondack Museum

For more news from Lake George, read the Lake George Mirror

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This Week's Top Adirondack News Stories

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Thursday, January 28, 2010

Adirondack Music Scene:
Amateurs, Soloists and Large Ensemble Concerts

We have an eclectic bunch of music events to choose from this week. Everything from amateur jams to serious solo and ensemble performances.

I'm personally going with the open minded mic tonight and the last of the January Jams on Sunday because I know how awesome that many talented people in one place can be. Also I've been checking out Peter Griggs online and I think his music is beautiful as well as educational.

Thursday, January 28th:

In Saranac Lake, Open Minded Mic Night at BluSeed Studios! The best open mic for audiences and performers in the north country. Sign up is at 7 pm and the show gets underway at 7:30 pm. Wonderful blues guitarist and singer Steve Langdon is hosting. There is a $3 cover. Stay until the end and vote for the best in show.

Friday, January 29th:

In Jay, Peter Griggs will be performing many different guitar styles including bossa nova, nuevo flamenco and blues guitar. This is a JEMS production to be held at the Amos and Julia Ward Theatre. The concert starts at 7 pm.

In Warrensburg, Dreaded Wheat is performing at George Henry's. They play from 9:30 pm to midnight.

Saturday, January 30th:

In Plattsburgh, the Adirondack Wind Ensemble will perform at 2 pm. It will be held at the E. Glenn Giltz Auditorium in Hawkins Hall at SUNY. General admission is $10 and students get in for free.

In Long Lake, The Long Lake Razz ( LLCS Jazz Band) and The Garrison/Leblanc Trio will be performing for the annual Chocolate Fest benefiting the library. The benefit concert will be held at the Long Lake Town Hall from 6:30 to 9:30 pm.

In Wilmington, Is is the band and Steinhoff's is the place. Unfortunately their website is under construction but I hear they are a talented 3 piece jazz band. There is no cover and they start around 10 pm.

In Saranac Lake a Scottish Musical Evening will be held at Will Rogers by the St. Andrews Society of the Adirondacks. The event starts at 6:30 pm and costs $5. Call 891-2165 for more information.

In Warrensburg, James Hood is at George Henry's. He plays from 8 - 11 pm.

Sunday, January 31st:

In Lake Placid, the Adirondack Wind Ensemble will perform at 1:30pm at LPCA. Tickets are $10 , students can attend for free.

In Upper Jay, the last of the January Jams at The Recovery Lounge. A fun experience for families as well as musicians. It starts at 2 pm and runs until 6 pm.

In Keene Valley, Peter Griggs will be performing "500 Years of Music for Guitar". This event is put on by the East Branch Friends of the Arts at the Keene Valley Congregational Church and starts at 4 pm.

Photo: Peter Griggs

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Adirondack Winter Resident Birds: The Kinglet

There is a tiny bird that lives in the Adirondacks whose body weight equals that of two pennies. Its overall size in not that much bigger than a hummingbird, and it does not migrate south to escape the freezing temperatures of the North Country. I often think of these birds as the late afternoon sun dips behind the mountains and the clear star-lit skies suck back up all the warm air that felt so good during the sunny day. I think of what it must take for this bird to survive just one night at 24 below zero Fahrenheit.

I'd like to introduce you to our resident member of the Regulus family, the golden-crowned kinglet (Regulus satrapa). I say resident member because its close relative, the ruby-crowned kinglet (Regulus calendula), has a better exit strategy by migrating south each fall. I guess some just can't handle the rigors of winter life in the Adirondacks!

If you have ski, snowshoe, or hike through the Adirondack woodlands you may have come across this olive-drab colored bird with a boldly striped head and face. Atop these stripes sits an often concealed crest of golden feathers, shown mostly when agitated or courting. Kinglets can often be seen hovering just on the undersides of eastern hemlock or balsam fir branches feeding on hidden spiders, eggs, caterpillars, and other hibernating insects. The kinglets' call notes of tsee-tsee can be heard throughout the day as it keeps in touch with the other members of the group that are feeding in the forest.

So last night after I washed up and brushed my teeth, I hopped into bed with my flannel sheets and down blanket. As I lay there toasty warm, and the winter winds rattled the windows I thought again of the little kinglets. How do they survive the night

The key to surviving an Adirondack winter (in the bird world) is to eat, eat, and eat some more. Kinglets, and other winter resident birds, want to keep a good layer of fat surrounding their insides because that is what keeps them fueled through a freezing 13 hour night of shivering. In the morning as the temps creep up to zero they can wake up fresh and ready to face another day of eating bugs. Oh by the way, they also need this fuel to maintain a constant body temperature at around 110 degrees F.(humans are 98.6 F)...hot little birds.

But kinglets have no bed to sleep, nor roof to cover them, or do they? After some exhaustive research, the Biologist/Author/Professor-Bernd Heinrich wrote in Winter World: The Ingenuity of Animal Survival, that kinglets may be spending the winter nights huddled together with several other kinglets (for body warmth), nestled under a pillow of thick snow on a tree branch. We see a similar strategy used by ruffed grouse as they burrow alone under loose snow and use the insulative quality of the white stuff. It was also revealed that some birds can go into a state of torper or lowering their " internal thermostats" to conserve energy.

An amazing fact is that many birds can restrict blood flow to their legs and feet but allowing just enough blood to keep the tissue from freezing. Don't we wish we had such abilities. Energy conservation is the name of the game with winter survival - and we thought we had all the answers to energy conservation!

Another insulation technique that birds often use is to fluff up their feathers to trap a layer of warm air in the soft downy feathers around their body. If you have ever held a bird in hand you probably noted how much space there is between feathers and actual body of the bird. Makes me think of how much I enjoy my down coat on these chilly days.

Earlier this week we experienced a bit of a "January thaw" with rain and strong winds. Again my thoughts go to birds in these conditions. We can think of feathers as a layered system of protection, not unlike the shingles of a layered roof. Rain falls onto the feathers but does not seep through to the skin because of these built-up layers. Also a bit of waterproofing is applied to the feathers from an oil gland near their rear-end.

So our kinglet may look bouncy and playful all day long in our Adirondack woods but it's cuteness hides the dogged determination that they need to find the food, build the fat, and keep the internal fires burning.

Well what a marvel of self efficiency we see in birds. They carry the roof, furnace, insulation, plumbing, and electricity all in a bundle of well-adapted anatomy and physiology!

Photo: Golden and ruby-crowned kinglets plate from Natural History of the Birds of Eastern and Central North America, 1925. Original painting by Allan Brooks.

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Flooding: Tracking Local Rivers With Streamgauges

As Almanack contributor Alan Wechsler reported yesterday, the big rain we had on Monday has wrecked havoc on Adirondack winter recreation. Alan noted that ice climbing, backcountry skiing, and local ski resorts were particularly hard hit (West Mountain just south of the Blue Line was forced to close), and to those we should add snowmobiling, as many trails around the region are all but impassable. Even the Saranac Lake Winter Carnival felt the pain, when rain seriously damaged this year's Ice Palace necessitating builders to almost start from scratch.

Over the past two days the region's nearly 30,000 miles of streams, brooks, and rivers have gathered volume and strength. In Washington County the Mettawee and Hoosic Rivers have flooded their banks, and the Batten Kill is near flood stage. The Hudson and Schroon Rivers are running very high and the Boquet has topped it's banks, but the most serious flooding has occurred in the Franklin County community of Fort Covington where flooding along the Salmon River has threatened a number of buildings and required evacuations.

Those interested in accessing information about what is happening to streams in your local area as a result of the heavy rain can access the U.S. Geological Survey's (USGS) streamgage network, which operates a nationwide system of about 7,000 streamgauges that monitor water level and flow. Streamgages transmit real-time information, which the National Weather Service uses to issue local flood warnings, and which paddlers in the know can use to estimate conditions. Some streamgauges have been operational since the early 1900s; the gauge just upstream from the Route 22 bridge over the Boquet, for instance, has been recording since 1923.

For more information about area streamgauges, check out the USGS's National Streamflow Information Program. There is also a nice short video here.

Illustration: The level of the Schroon river over the last few days at Riverbank.

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Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Dinosaurs in the Adirondacks – The Wild Turkey

Anyone who doesn’t believe that birds are the descendants of dinosaurs needs only one look at a running turkey to have a change of heart. This winter a female turkey has made my back yard a daily stop in her travels, and let me tell you: there are few things in life so prehistoric-looking than a turkey going full tilt trying to escape your camera lens.

The wild turkey (Meleagris gallopavo) is one of two species of turkeys in the world. The other is a denizen of Central America and as such is of little importance to us here in the Adirondacks. No, we are concerned with our own native bird, the one of such character and pride that Ben Franklin thought it should be the symbol of our country.

When Europeans first descended upon the eastern shores of North America, turkeys ruled the roost, so to speak. Millions of them populated the woodlands, providing food for man and beast alike. But, as is the habit of mankind, forests were cut and turkeys were eaten. As early as 1672 keen observers of nature were already remarking that turkey populations were not what they once had been. In 1844, the last wild turkey in New York was reported in the extreme southwestern part of the state; after that, they were gone.

For years nothing was done to rectify the state of things, turkey-wise. By the turn of the century (c. 1900), approximately 75% of New York had been cleared, agriculture and development dominating where once forests grew. Without healthy forests, turkeys could not survive (hard mast, such as acorns and beechnuts, is a major part of their diet). As the century plodded along, however, many farmers left home, moving to the cities where jobs were more likely to be had. Old farmland began to revert to forests, and slowly turkeys started to come back, making their way northward from Pennsylvania. By the 1940s, the southwestern part of the state was once more populated with these large bronze birds.

To help things along, New York State converted a central New York pheasant hatchery into a turkey hatchery in 1952. Over the next several years, thousands of turkeys were released into the wild. Sadly, this operation was doomed to failure. Speculation was that the released birds were too tame and therefore lacked the brains to escape (or fight) predators. It was also thought that their natural reproduction was too low to sustain a viable population. So the Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) went to Plan B: capture wild turkeys and relocate them.

This new plan began in 1959 and saw New York’s wild turkey population successfully soar from about 2000 birds to over 65,000 by 1990. The relocation program was so successful that the DEC started shipping birds to neighboring states to help them reestablish their own dwindling populations.

I saw my first wild turkey in the early ‘80s out at Letchworth State Park. There were two or three of them, and they flew up into a tree along the edge of a small ravine. Prior to this I never would’ve guessed that turkeys could fly. Three years later, a friend of mine shot a turkey and decided we should give it to my mother for Mother’s Day; so he and I and all my roommates drove to my parents’ house with the turkey in tow. It barely fit in the oven, but it was a mighty tasty bird. Ten years later, turkeys were all over the farm fields back home: whole herds of them marching along the rows of cut corn. (And yes, I use the word “herd” intentionally, for when they are walking along the ground en masse, they are definitely a herd.)

Back in the ‘80s it was believed by biologists that turkeys wouldn’t be able to survive the harsh winters the Adirondacks can dish out. Imagine their surprise when turkeys not only moved into the mountains, but thrived! Hardly a week goes by all year that I don’t see a turkey or two, or ten. Sometimes they lurk along the roadsides, picking up grit or maybe hunting insects; other times they are strutting across a neighbor’s yard.

A couple years ago, I came across a hen and her poults hiding in the shrubbery between the second and fourth holes on the local golf course. I was walking the dog, and of course he started barking, so the hen took off, dashing away into the trees with most of her progeny in hot pursuit. Two, however, were left behind. I sat the dog down and we waited. And waited. One of the poults peeped and trotted off after the long-gone parent, but the other remained behind, peeping its distress. Even though I knew better, the pitiful cries got to me and I finally decided to go "rescue" the thing. My plan was to carry it to the patch of woods in which its mother had disappeared and set it down where she could get to it without having to come near me and the dog. Big mistake. No sooner had I picked up the ungrateful bird then it let out a squawking and wailing that brought the mother running and flapping from the woods. A velociraptor had nothing on her. Fearing for my safety (I’ve heard tales of the damage a turkey can do with its spurs), I dropped the poult, snagged the dog’s leash, and we high-tailed it out of there. That was the last time I tried to help a “stranded” wildlife baby.

And just in case you needed further convincing that turkeys are dinosaurs in disguise, watch a herd of them come trotting across a lawn or field when the early morning fog is lying close to the ground. All you need is to cue up the music and you are staring at a living tableau from Jurassic Park. Add a rock wall for them to jump on, and the scene is complete.

It was -7 degrees Fahrenheit this morning, but I don’t think the local turkeys were much fazed by this. Indeed, I think they are here to stay, and that’s a nice thing, for every patch of wilderness should have its resident dinosaurs, and for us the wild turkey fills the bill nicely.

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Adirondack Weather: A Wet Break From Winter

Amazing how fast the winter landscape can change. On Sunday we were hiking Algonquin in the High Peaks, with winds so strong rime ice formed on our clothes as we made for the summit.

A day later, Roaring Brook Falls looked like Niagara, as 1.5 inches of rain turned the Adirondacks into a tropical rainforest with snow.

While the weather put a damper on winter sports, it shouldn't take long to get things back to normal, say those in the business.

Gore posted this on their Web site on Tuesday: "Although recent severe weather in the Northeast has limited the opening of several trails today, please stay tuned because groomers and snowmakers are getting Gore back in great shape as soon as possible!"

Meanwhile, Whiteface optimistically described its frozen, rain-saturated snow as "loose granular," and promised 73 trails a day after the storm. No doubt, both mountains will be blowing snow to improve the damage, and snow showers predicted over the next few days may help make the slopes more user-friendly.

As far as backcountry skiing, you'd better be good. "Those trails are going to be really ice," said Ed Palin, owner of Rock and River guide service in Keene. "It will be fast."

Speaking of ice, the rain decimated some of the most popular ice climbs in the park. But other routes -- those not below major runoff channels, or fat enough to withstand the one-day warm spell, should still be climbable, he said.

"With all this water running, we might get some climbs we don't see for a while," he said. In the meantime, good bets for climbers include Multiplication Gully, Crystal Ice Tower and the North Face of Pitchoff, he said.

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Adirondacks Well Represented at Vancouver Olympics

Yesterday Andrew Weibrecht became the latest of a pack of Adirondackers named to the U.S. Olympic Team. It was really just a formality. Of course Andrew would make the alpine ski squad. He’s fearless, he’s dedicated and he’s got no brakes.

It’s still huge to see his name on the list. He’s a great guy and makes us proud. It’s hard to explain why people who have nothing to do with these kids’ success can feel that way, but in a small town you just do. Six athletes who have grown up in Lake Placid and Saranac Lake are going to the 2010 games in Vancouver, and so are three who moved here at a young age, as are some luge veterans who’ve lived in Lake Placid so long it's home.

In a region of .00004 percent of the national population that is sending 4 percent of our Olympic team, the degrees of separation are considerably foreshortened. These inspiring young men and women are neighbors and friends. Or we know their moms or dads, or see them skiing at Avalanche Lake, or listen to them play mandolin in the bandshell. We may have taught them history, drank their homemade cider or been next door when one of them (whom we will call "War Horse") broke his leg in some sort of homemade man-size slingshot.

We thought Andrew would be the last of the Adirondack contenders to be named, but 16-year-old Ashley Caldwell also made the Olympic cut yesterday; she will compete in aerials for the U.S. Freestyle Ski Team. She moved to Lake Placid three years ago to pursue her sport, and we’ll cheer just as loudly for her.

Even athletes who train or compete in Lake Placid gain a local following. My friend’s daughter will be rooting for the U.S. Women’s Hockey Team, several of whose members coached her at hockey camp last summer. The ladies also have fans at Lisa G’s.

Saranac Lake is sometimes obscured by Lake Placid’s 1932 and 1980 Olympian shadow, but it too has been known to send bobsledders, skaters, skiers and hockey players to world competition. This year four Saranac Lakers are heading to the winter Olympics: 21-year-old luger Chris Mazdzer, 17-year-old ski jumper Peter Frenette, 27-year-old Tim Burke of Paul Smiths (Biathlon) and 29-year-old Billy Demong of Vermontville (Nordic Combined). Tupper Lake also takes pride in Peter Frenette, who has many relatives there and who debuted on skis at age 2 at Big Tupper. We in Saranac Lake claim kinship with Billy and Tim because they attended and skied for Saranac Lake High School, plus they got early lessons here, at Dewey Mountain Recreation Area.

I love the fact that luger Mark Grimette is 39 and his silver-medal doubles partner Brian Martin is 36 and they still have wheels (wrong metaphor, but they are serious competitors). Vancouver will be their fourth Olympics.

My other favorite Olympic friendship story is that of Lowell Bailey of Lake Placid (Biathlon) and Tim and Billy (pictured). These three have skied together since they were little, and the love of their sport has taken them around the world. Haley Johnson of Lake Placid (Biathlon) joined that pack when she began traveling with Lowell and Tim in high school.

Kris Cheney Seymour runs the Dewey Mountain Youth Ski League in Saranac Lake and is a top-notch skier and coach. He grew up in Saranac Lake and has long known Billy, Tim, Lowell and Haley as a coach and friend. He is one of many coaches, mentors and sports-support staff around here who have a greater claim on community pride. When people joke that Dewey should be called “the Other Olympic Mountain” for its early role in so many good skiers’ lives, Kris says there’s something to it. Once, after a particularly steep hill on the World Cup circuit in Europe, Tim e-mailed Kris and commented that Dewey prepared him well.

We might take it for granted that so many kids here skate, ski and slide. But as Kris often points out, these sports can change lives. Not only are they fun, apparently they can take you places. Even if they don't take you to the Olympics, plenty of locals have gone to college on their sport and competed against some of the best athletes in the world.

So, go Andrew! Go Billy, Lowell, Tim, Haley, Peter, Chris, Ashley, Mark, Brian, Bengt Walden (luge), John Napier (bobsled) and Erin Hamlin (luge)! And you too, speed skater Trevor Marsicano of Ballston Spa and Plattsburgh native Anders Johnson, who trained at Lake Placid's speedskating and ski jumping facilities! And go U.S. women’s hockey team! Have a great time in Vancouver.

Photograph of (l to r) Lowell Bailey, Billy Demong and Tim Burke as young skiers, courtesy of the Demong family

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Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Historic Special Management Areas in The Adirondack Park

Yesterday, Almanack contributor (and Adirondack Explorer editor) Phil Brown pointed out the existence of Special Management Areas at the back of the Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan (pdf). The areas are broken into Scenic, Geographical, Historic, and Natural "Illustrative Special Interest Areas". The historic list includes a sometimes strange selection of 14 places of special historic interest on state forest lands. Here they are:

Axton Plantation

In 1898, New York Governor Frank Black secured a 30,000 acre experimental forestry station to be run by the New York State College of Forestry at Cornell University, which was also established that same year. Under the leadership of Bernhard Eduard Fernow, a pioneer in the study of scientific forestry and forestry education, the State's first tree nurseries and forest tree plantations were set up at Axton (formally Axe-Town). The Cornell forestry program closed its doors in 1907, and the year after the NYS Forest, Fish and Game Commission (forerunner of the DEC) took over the Axton Plantation - it was abandoned however, in 1908. The Cornell program was replaced by SUNY-ESF - now the oldest college in the US solely dedicated to the study of the environment (itself founded in 1911 as the College of Forestry at Syracuse).

Burnt Shanty Clearing

Burnt Shanty Clearing in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness is today nothing more than a widening of the trail and a few gnarly old apple and cherry trees, but it was once on the North Creek stagecoach route along the East Branch of the Sacandaga River. It served first as the location of a logging camp and then later, after the trees had been cleared, as a farmstead.

Fort George & Battleground

Fort George was built of stone on the site of the 1755 Battle of Lake George after William Johnson and his British, Colonial, and Indian forces defeated the French and their Indian allies. It was constructed in 1759 under orders from General Jeffery Amherst, but when Fort Carillon (now Fort Ticonderoga) was captured in 1760 Amherst began building the fort at Crown Point and abandoned work on Fort George. The partially completed fort served from 1775 to 1777 as a major supply depot and hospital for the Northern Continental Army in the American Revolution.

French Louie's Camp

French Louie Seymour was the hermit featured in Harvey Dunham's 1952 classic book, Adirondack French Louie. Seymour was a trapper and Adirondack guide who lived into his eighties in the West Canada Lakes region of Hamilton County; he died in 1915 and was buried in the Speculator cemetery. His old camp was located at West Lake, west of the Cedar Lakes, in what is now the West Canada Lake Wilderness Area.

Mother Johnson's Boarding House


Mother Johnson's Boarding House was an early hotel site at the carry around Raquette Falls (1860-1875) north of Long Lake. The building was a relatively small log structure that Adirondack Murray and his guide John Plumley visited (and praised the pancakes of) in 1868. Seneca Ray Stoddard wrote about and photographed Mother Johnson and the early hotel in about 1875. All that remains are the remnants of a cellar hole.

Round Pond Canal

Round Pond Canal is the remnant of a canal plan to connect Long Lake to the Hudson River. The old canal (about a quarter-mile long) is a strangely straight waterway north of Catlin Lake in the High Peaks Wilderness just north of the Huntington Wild Forest boundary, that was first proposed in 1836 by state geologist Ebenezer Emmons. Ferand N. Benedict surveyed the route twice, and was instrumental in building a dam on Round Pond. According to the folks at SUNY-ESF "Communities along the Raquette River opposed it because water from Long Lake would be diverted east to the Hudson, causing possible economic hardship for loggers and others along the Raquette north toward Potsdam." In 1882 Thomas C. Durant started work on the canal by building a dam to raise the level of Long Lake and planned locks along the canal. When Durant's steamboat The Buttercup was scuttled and the dam blown up, Durant abandoned the canal project.

Prospect Mountain Inclined R.R.

The Prospect Mountain Incline Railway (that's its proper name) at Lake George was built in 1895 by the Horicon Improvement Company to carry tourists up Prospect Mountain. The cable car line was about a mile and half long and ended at the Prospect Mountain House on the summit. It was acquired by George Foster Peabody in 1904 (the railroad went out of business the year before) and donated to the State in 1923. In 1932 the Prospect Mountain House was destroyed by fire. A small ski hill was later located near the site, and in 1969 the Prospect Mountain State Parkway opened as a Memorial Highway in honor of America's War Veterans.

Riparius Bridge

Presumabbly the SLMP means the first suspension bridge over the Hudson River in 1871 at Washburn's Eddy near Rapairius (then called Riverside) and not the later bridge (what is today Route 8). Robert Codgell Gilchrist, a Confederate Major who came to the Adirondacks a year after the Civil War ended, built the short lived span. The bridge is the subject of Rosemary Miner Pelky's Adirondack Bridgebuilder from Charleston.

Rondeau's Hermitage

Plenty has been written about Noah John Roneau, considered (but not actually) the “Last Adirondack Hermit.” Almanack contributor Kevin MacKenzie described the site late last year: "The easiest way, among many, to Rondeau’s old stomping ground is via a ten and one half mile walk from Coreys Road located between Saranac Lake and Tupper Lake. A mixture of trail and old truck trails winds through hardwood forests, around the Seward Range, past Mountain Pond and over the Essex County Line as evidenced by a decaying wooden sign on the ground.... Once upon the Northville Placid Trail, regardless of direction, you’ll encounter a faded divergence. The quickly overgrowing old main route, leads straight. The current main route leads up to the height of land. Various relics such as stove parts, pails and unidentifiable metal objects adorn the base of one of the many beach trees growing on the peaceful site. A nearby plaque commemorates Rondeau’s life."

Roosevelt Plaque

There are quite a few "Roosevelt Plaques" in the Adirondacks, but this one is presumably the granite and bronze monument on Route 28 about seven miles south of Newcomb that commemorates the moment (2:15 am on September 14th, 1901) when William McKinley died of an assassin's bullet and Theodore Roosevelt, riding in a wagon toward North Creek, became President of teh Untied States. Aiden Lair, the hotel where Roosevelt changed horses, remains in abject abandonment and disrepair nearby.

Scott's Pond Lumber Dam

Scott Pond is an acidic, 6-acre pond that lies to the east of the Wallface ponds between McNaughton Mountain and Street Mountain in the High Peaks Wilderness. Scott Pond was originally a man-made impoundment and the stone remains of a log driving dam are located on its outlet, although beavers maintain the pond's depth. The pond averages about three feet deep but is six feet deep in some spots and is said to hold no fish.

Scott Clearing and Lumber Dam

Associated with Scott's Pond Lumber Dam above, Scott's Clearing was the location of an 1880's lumber camp, dam and sluiceway located on Indian Pass Brook in the High Peaks Wilderness.

Lake Stevens Flume Route

Located in the Wilmington Wild Forest, Lake Stevens is a small pond at the head of Red Brook forms the start of one of the longest log flumes in the eastern United States. The flume ran for many miles down to the AuSable River and from there toward Keeseville.

Valcour Island

Valcour Island is about a two square mile island in Lake Champlain southeast of the City of Plattsburgh, that was the site of the October 11, 1776 naval battle known as the Battle of Valcour Island, which was fought in that strait between the island and the mainland between British and U.S. forces under Benedict Arnold. This battle is generally considered the first naval battle fought by the United States Navy.

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Monday, January 25, 2010

Saranac Lakes Wild Forest: Oseetah Marsh

One of the perks of living in the Adirondacks is the lunch-hour hike or ski. In winter, I sometimes ski with sandwich in pocket to Oseetah Marsh. From Route 86 on the outskirts of Saranac Lake, I follow a trail through a pine forest for a half-mile to the edge of the marsh and then ski across the marsh. The marsh has fabulous views of nearby peaks, including McKenzie, Scarface, and the Sawtooth Range.

The trail through the forest and across the marsh happens to be a snowmobile route. This would not be noteworthy except that the Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan identifies Oseetah Marsh as a “Special Management Area.”

All told, the plan lists eighty-nine Special Management Areas, selected for their scenic beauty or their geographical, natural, or historic significance. It’s kind of an odd list. For instance, seventeen summits were selected for their scenic beauty. I’ve been up all but two. They all have nice views, but there are other mountains with equal or better views. Why these seventeen?

Twenty-six places were singled out for their natural significance. They include patches of old-growth, two mountains (in addition to the other seventeen), a few bogs and marshes, and one pond—Church Pond. Of the three thousand ponds in the Adirondacks, what’s so special about this one?

The master plan gives the state Department of Environmental Conservation the authority to draw up management guidelines to protect these areas and, where appropriate, to install interpretive signs.

I wondered what special management Oseetah Marsh receives. I also wondered why, if this marsh is so special (it was chosen for its natural significance), snowmobiles are allowed to ride through it. I don’t know if the snowmobiles are doing ecological harm, but the machines do emit oil and gas.

As it turns out, Oseetah Marsh receives no special treatment. But DEC spokesman David Winchell said the agency will consider special guidelines as it draws up a management plan for the Saranac Lakes Wild Forest (the marsh lies within the Wild Forest tract).

As far as I can determine, few of the eighty-nine Special Management Areas receive special management. The High Peaks Wilderness Area, for example, contains more than a dozen Special Management Areas. Most receive no mention or only incidental mention in the 336-page unit management plan for the High Peaks.

APA spokesman Keith McKeever said the list of Special Management Areas was drawn up in the early 1970s by the APA and DEC. He said the purpose of the list is not only to provide management guidelines, but also to publicize these treasured places.

“It was to identify areas of the Park that are really magnificent,” he said, “so people can enjoy them and visit them.”

But my guess is that few people are aware of the list of Special Management Areas in the back of a rather obscure state document. Indeed, it seems to have escaped the attention of officialdom as well.

Photo by Phil Brown: snowmobile tracks at Oseetah Marsh.

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Freestyle Skiing: Nature Valley Freestyle Cup

This past week, Lake Placid once again hosted an Olympic Qualifier event for Freestyle skiing. The Nature Valley Freestyle Cup encompassed aerials, moguls, and ski cross competition at both Whiteface Mountain and the Olympic Jumping Complex. For many athletes, this was the last chance to secure a spot on the Olympic team. The 2010 Olympic Freestyle Team will be announced Tuesday, January 26th.

Freestyle skiing is a unique sport that involves several different events. Aerial skiing is like gymnastics on skis, in which participants flip and somersault after leaping off a ramp. Jumpers are scored on jump takeoff, jump form, and jump lading, with a degree of difficulty factored in to result in a total score. Mogul competition is characterized by skiers navigating terrain with large bumps, and requires fast maneuvering. One of the newer disciplines in freestyle skiing is Skiercross, which is based on the motorbike competition in motocross. Competitors ski in groups of four down the course, which includes jumps or banks depending on the course design, and compete to be the fastest 16 (women’s events) or 32 (men’s events). After these are chosen, there is a knockout style of series in which the first two over the line compete in the next round- in the end, the final rounds and small final rounds determine 1st-4th place and 5th-8th places.

This competition attracted some of the best athletes in the sport of freestyle skiing- World Mogul Champion Patrick Deneen competed after already securing his spot on the Olympic Team in December, placing 37th in the final round of moguls. Hannah Kearney, the World Cup Moguls Champion, won the final round. In Aerials, the highest placing US athlete was 10th place finisher Jeret Peterson, who won the event last year. The highest placing American in the women’s Aerial competition was Jana Lindsey, who finished in 8th place in the finals. The Skiercross women’s competition was won by Canadian Kelsey Serwa, and the highest placing American was Langely McNeal in 16th place. In the men’s competition, the winner of the final was Christopher Delbosco of Canada, with the USA’s Daron Rahlves in 4th place.

For more information on the Nature Valley Freestyle Cup, visit the official event website at http://www.whiteface.com/events/freestyle/schedule.php. The competitions will also be televised on NBC and Versus.

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Ten Influential People in Adirondack History

One thing for sure, this list is not complete. There are perhaps thirty important people who didn't make this short list. Suggestions from readers on the original post seeking nominations offers a much more complete list of those influential in the Adirondacks, but I said ten, and so here is ten. I've listed them roughly chronologically.

Something I found interesting: five of these men (yeah, they're all men) were born in the eighteen years between 1840 and 1858—an Adirondack Greatest Generation?

Deganawida (before 1600) - The Great Peacemaker, as he is known to the Haudenosaunee (Iroquois), helped unite the various local Native Indian nations into the Iroquois Confederacy. In the process he set the Mohawk on a historical path that influenced European affairs. Thanks to the power of their Confederacy, mostly Iroquois names remain on the Adirondack landscape, including the Mohawk inspired "Adirondack." Without Deganawida's Iroquois Confederacy we might be speaking French today.

Honorable Mention: Hiawatha, who carried on (and to some extent carried out) Deganawida's mission, and Arent van Curler, considered responsible for the reasonably good relations between the Dutch and Native Americans, particularly the Iroquois.

William Johnson (c. 1715–1774) - As a commander of colonial militia forces during the French and Indian War, and later superintendent of Indian affairs, Johnson helped keep Iroquois allies working in the interest of the British. He was crucial in the British victory at the Battle of Lake George (1755) and in capturing Fort Niagara (1759) which put an end to significant French influence in the region. Although the Iroquois were important to determining what language Adirondackers speak today, William Johnson was instrumental.

Honorable Mention: Robert Rogers, commander of Rogers' Rangers and hero of Adirondack folk life, and Hendrick Theyanoguin ("King Hendrick"), the Mohawk Chief who helped bring the Mohawk to support the British.

James Fenimore Cooper (1789–1851) - One of America's most popular writers of the early 19th century, Cooper did for the Adirondacks what Mark Twain (who hated Last of the Mohicans) would do for the Mississippi. His "Leatherstocking Tales" hero Natty Bumppo served to define American impressions of Adirondack wilderness, and helped create the legend of the rugged frontiersman and the Adirondack Guide. Natty Bumpo rejected the trappings of modern urban civilization, much the way many Adirondackers still do.

Honorable Mention: Chingachgook, who became the idealized embodiment of the noble savage - a natural man, unencumbered by civilization, part of why the Adirondacks still uses so many Native American inspired names for a hundred rundown motels, and Ebenezer Emmons, the geologist whose Romantic native American inspired contributions to the New York Natural History Survey reinforced Native connections and provided the name "Adirondacks."

William H. H. Murray (1840–1904) - Adirondack Murray has long been considered instrumental in the birth of the Adirondack tourism industry. His 1869 book Adventures in the Wilderness; or, Camp-Life in the Adirondacks (which went through eight printings its first year) served as a simple guide to those who hoped to find spiritual enlightenment, physical health, and a return to man's natural state. The Great Wiki says that Murray argued that the "rustic nobility typical of Adirondack woodsmen came from their intimacy with wilderness." There's that rustic frontier nobility again.

Honorable Mention: Long Lake Guide Mitchell Sabattis, who guided Murray twice, and Benson J. Lossing whose heavily illustrated Field-Book of the Revolution served as the basic vacation tour guide model that Seneca Ray Stoddard later capitalized on.

Verplanck Colvin (1847–1920) - The Great Wiki says "lawyer, author, illustrator and topographical engineer whose understanding and appreciation for the environment of the Adirondack Mountains led to the creation of New York's Forest Preserve and the Adirondack Park." I, along with many of our commenters who made suggestions for this list, concur. His 1873 report arguing that the entire Adirondack region should be protected was instrumental in the creation of Adirondack Forest Preserve in 1885.

Honorable Mention: George Perkins Marsh, Henry David Thoreau, John Burroughs, John Muir, and others who convinced Americans that wild places were worth preserving.

Seneca Ray Stoddard (1844-1917) - Perhaps no single person in Adirondack history has had more impact on the region's modern tourist economy. His guidebook The Adirondacks: Illustrated, published from 1873 to 1914, included the first tourist map of the region, and inspired countless Americans and Europeans to experience the region's wonders - many of them returned for good. His 1892 illustrated lecture to the New York State Legislature is considered influential in the creation of the Adirondack Park.

Honorable Mention: Almanack reader Mara Jayne's suggested Adirondack artists: Thomas Cole, John Kensett, Sanford Gifford, Frederic Church, Samuel Coleman, J.D. Smilie, David Johnson, Asher B. Durand, James M. Hart, and Alexander Wyant.

Edward L. Trudeau (1848-1915) - Almanack reader Amy Catania suggested Trudeau saying, "When he came to the Adirondacks in the 1870s, Saranac Lake had less than 500 residents. Bloomingdale was a bigger town. At his death in 1915, SL had grown to around 8,000 residents. Just about all of the built environment in this little city in the ADKs grew up to serve the TB patients who followed Dr. Trudeau here. Dr. Trudeau built the first laboratory for the study of TB in the U.S. and the first Sanatorium to care for TB patients. Thanks to Dr. Trudeau, Saranac Lake was the national center for patient care and TB research up until the advent of antibiotics. And that meant a lot: the number of Americans infected with tuberculosis in the nineteenth century was as great as the combined number of cancer and heart disease patients today." I agree - he helped define the Tri-Lakes Region.

Honorable Mention: The thousands of anonymous nurses, doctors, and other workers who cared for the region's TB patients.

Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919) - Avid naturalist and the founding father of America’s conservation movement, Theodore Roosevelt has been crucial to the kind of wilderness protection and wildlife conservation history that has defined the Adirondack region. Aside from helping to popularize the conservation of wild places, T.R. was a staunch supporter of the scientific approach to forest and wildlife management who pushed against "the depredations of man" by working to strengthen local fish and game laws and to professionalize the New York Fisheries, Game, and Forest Commission (forerunner of the DEC).

Honorable Mention: Foresters Bob Marshall, Bernhard Fernow or Gifford Pinchot who helped reverse the history of exploitation of the Adirondacks by the logging companies.

John Apperson (1878–1963) - Almanack reader Gregory Rosenthal suggested John Apperson by saying "he was Paul Schaefer's mentor and one of the earliest voices for, and probably the greatest catalyst for, the expansion of the blue line [in 1931] to include Lake George and other southeastern ADK lands." That's a big chunk of the region and home to many of those who today oppose the Adirondack Park Agency and it's controls over development inside the Blue Line. Without Apperson's leadership, the political landscape of the Adirondacks may very well have turned out differently. Apperson was a charter member of the Adirondack Mountain Club and an early proponents of skiing in the Adirondacks who pioneered the skiing of several routes in the High Peaks and around Lake George.

Honorable Mention: Paul Schaefer, for his work with the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks, and Clarence Petty, for his role in influencing the classification of Adirondack lands.

Arto Monaco (1913-2003) - The work of Art Monaco in designing the area's theme parks has become a central part of the history of tourism in the Adirondacks, and the experience of Adirondack visitors in the last half-century. His creations have been found in the defunct Old McDonald's Farm (Lake Placid), The Land of Makebelieve (Upper Jay), Gaslight Village (Pottersville and then Lake George), and Frontier Town (North Hudson), at Storytown (now the corporate Great Escape) and Santa's Workshop in Wilmington (the last of a breed and a spot that made our Seven Human-Made Wonders of the Adirondacks).

Honorable Mention: Harold Hochschild, whose inspiration (and money) was crucial to the establishment of the Adirondack Museum, and Charles R. "Charley" Wood, the Lake George businessman and philanthropist whose impact on the Warren County landscape is undeniable.

Nelson Rockefeller (1908-1979) - Nothing on the man-made Adirondack landscape matches the Adirondack Northway, and in terms of impact on the communities along its route, it's huge. Just for that Nelson Rockefeller could make the list. But while a Republican New York State Governor he also sought passage of three major bond acts that provided over $300 million for land purchases (which helped establish 55 new state parks), created the Department of Environmental Conservation and the Office of Parks and Recreation, and banned DDT. Most importantly, however, he focused attention on suburban sprawl in the Adirondack Park and then appointed the Temporary Study Commission on the Future of the Adirondacks in 1968. That led to the creation of the Adirondack Park Agency - and we know where that story goes.

Honorable Mention: Ronald Stafford for helping create the North Country's prison economy, and, as Tony Hall noted, for his work as an Adirondack conservationist.

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Sunday, January 24, 2010

APA To Hold Public Hearings on Land Classification

The Adirondack Park Agency has scheduled five public hearings to hear comments on proposals to classify or reclassify about 31,500 acres. The acreage in question is located in Clinton, Essex, Franklin, Fulton, Hamilton, Herkimer, Lewis, Oneida, St. Lawrence, and Warren counties. Included in the proposals is the 17,000 acre Chazy Highlands tract, located in the towns of Ellenberg, Dannemora and Saranac, in Clinton County, which is being recommended for Wild Forest classification. The Tahawus Tract, which includes Henderson Lake in the Town of Newcomb, is also being proposed for addition to the High Peaks Wilderness Area.

An inter-active map and detailed descriptions of the proposed classifications are available from the Adirondack Park Agency’s website at http://www.apa.state.ny.us/


The Public hearings will take place at the following locations and dates:

January 25, 2010, 7:00 pm

Newcomb Fire Hall
5635 Route 28N
Newcomb, NY

January 27, 2010, 7:00 pm

Park Avenue Building
183 Park Ave
Old Forge, NY

January 28, 2010, 7:00 pm

Saranac Town Hall, 3662 Route 3
Saranac, NY

February 2, 2010, 7:00 pm

St. Lawrence County Human Services Center
80 SH 310
Canton, NY

February 5, 2010, 1:00 pm

NYDEC, 625 Broadway
Albany, NY

The public is encouraged to attend the hearings and provide comment. The Agency will also accept written comments regarding the classification proposals until March 19, 2010.

Written comments should be submitted to:

Richard E. Weber
PO Box 99, Ray Brook, NY 12977

Fax to (518)891-3938
E-mail apa_slmp@gw.dec.state.ny.us.

Photo: Location map for State lands under consideration. Courtesy the APA.

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Saturday, January 23, 2010

4-H Adirondack Guide Program Announced

The 4-H Adirondack Guide Program is a unique program designed for boys and girls 12 to 18 years old who are interested in in-depth exploration of natural resources, gaining knowledge in the biological sciences, and developing outdoor recreation teaching and leadership skills.

4-H Adirondack Guide Program activities include field trips and classes, canoe and hiking trips, and community service projects. Participants learns such skills as map and compass reading; canoeing; tree, plant, flower and wildlife identification; environmental teaching techniques; woods lore and safety; first aid and lifeguard training; outdoor clothing and equipment; wilderness trip coordination, and the use of global positioning systems (GPS). Participants have the opportunity to work with licensed Adirondack Guides, Forest Rangers, Fish and Wildlife Biologists, Foresters and skilled woodsmen. The program is conducted in an informal atmosphere, conducive to building confidence and self-esteem.

The program, sponsored by Cornell University Cooperative Extension, allows participants to advance from the Apprentice Guide level, through Intermediate, to full Senior 4-H Adirondack Guide status.

An orientation meeting for the 4-H Adirondack Guide Program will be held Thursday, February 18, 2010 7:00 p.m. at the Cornell Cooperative Extension Education Center, 377 Schroon River Road in Warrensburg, NY.

For more information, or to register, please call the Cornell Cooperative Extension office at 623-3291 or 668-4881 to register. For further information, ask to speak with John Bowe.

Photo: 4-H Adirondack Guide program participants Ben Hoffman and Sabrina Fish starting a fire.

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The Red and The Grey – A Look at Adirondack Foxes

Several years ago, while living in an old farm house in rural central New York, I woke one morning to a strange sound. It was somewhere between a cough and a bark, and it was coming from in front of the house. I crept through the bedrooms upstairs and peered out the window. To my surprise, I saw a red fox skulking around the sugar maples, apparently calling for its mate. Fast forward to about four years ago when someone sent in a recording to NCPR asking if anyone knew what the mysterious sound was. Although it had been several years, I recognized it immediately: the coughing bark of a red fox. Once you’ve heard it, you’ll never forget it.

The Adirondack Mountains are home to two species of fox: the red (Vulpes vulpes) and the grey (Urocyon cinereoargenteus). Both are small members of the dog family, and both, especially the grey, are considered to be cat-like canines. Their small size, their eyes with vertically contracting pupils, and the grey’s ability to climb trees certainly make them seem more like cats than dogs, yet there they sit on the taxonomic tree next to Fido, Wiley and The Wolf.

The smaller of the two, grey foxes are rarely found to exceed 12 pounds and more often weigh significantly less; my cats have all weighed more. Covered with grizzled grey fur, with reddish fur running along the sides of the neck and up towards the ears, a pale belly and a black-tipped tail, the grey fox is a strikingly handsome animal. It is also equipped with semi-retractable claws, which enable it to scamper up trees to avoid predators and curious humans. An inhabitant of woodlands, it is quite at home in our northern forests.

Red foxes are animals of woodland edges and open fields. Although less stocky than their grey counterparts, red foxes are known to reach weights upwards of 15 pounds. And while most red foxes are indeed red (well, actually more orange than red), as a species they exhibit great variation in color, running the gamut from yellow-blonde to black. There’s one thing they always have in common, though, and that’s a white tip on the tail. If you see a white tip, it’s a red fox, regardless of what color the rest of the animal is.

Although the grey fox is definitely a native animal, the red fox comes to us cloaked with controversy. Some folks claim that they are only on this continent thanks to the British love of The Hunt. As the story goes, when the English were establishing their reign in the early days of the Colonies, they brought with them the sport of fox hunting. Since the native grey fox had a tendency to climb trees and escape the hounds, they imported red foxes from back home to give them the kind of hunt they desired. Some scientists believe, however, that red foxes have been here all along, perhaps traveling across the famous land bridge in the Bering Strait centuries ago. Fossil evidence seems to support both claims: red foxes appear to be native to the boreal regions of North America (land bridge), while those found in temperate regions were apparently introduced (fox hunting).

Anyone who has gone tracking with me knows I have a tendency to stop and sniff things. When I teach tracking I encourage participants to take a sniff, too, for smell can be a great indicator of who left the sign behind. Sadly, most folks aren’t curious enough to take me up on the offer. I highly recommend it, though, especially if you are trying to ascertain if the animal you are trailing is a red fox. Once you have smelled red fox urine, you will never forget it, for it smells like a skunk. Trackers claim that red fox urine is at its most potent in January and February, and I suspect this is because mating season will soon be upon them.

If you want to go looking for foxes, now is the time to discover where they are, for winter is the great equalizer. Foxes are secretive; it is entirely possible that you have been watched by a fox while walking through the woods. They are shy, stealthy and clever; if they don’t want to be seen, they won’t be. But in the winter, they cannot hide their presence. By going out now, you can learn about your neighborhood foxes. Do you have reds or greys? Does the territory belong to a male or a female? With some patience and a good eye, you might even be lucky enough to spot your fox.

Photo courtesy George Seymour, Saugerties, NY

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Friday, January 22, 2010

This Week's Adirondack Web Highlights

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A Sense of Place: American Impressionists at The Hyde

Enter the Hyde Collection’s Charles R. Wood Gallery, where the stunning new exhibition, “An Enduring Legacy: American Impressionist Paintings from the Thomas Clark Collection,” is displayed, and among the first things you’ll notice is that the paintings are grouped roughly by geography, or according to the regions depicted by these early 20th century artists: the New England coast, Vermont, the Hudson Valley, California.

Far from being arbitrary or eccentric, that curatorial choice cleverly elucidates an intention shared by almost every artist represented in the show.

These American Impressionists, explains curator Erin Coe, “were deeply committed to making art that reflected the spirit of America and its distinctive scenery.”

Or, as Coe writes in the catalogue that accompanies the exhibition, “the landscape painters of the first third of the twentieth century were overtly nationalistic in their outlook, seeking to create a more authentic American variant of Impressionism…”

To realize that ambition, those artists were compelled to train their eyes on a particular region, if only because the American landscape is defined by its diversity and lack of uniformity. An American landscape is necessarily a local landscape.

“The works in the Clark Collection offer a comprehensive treatment of these regional schools of Impressionist activity in America,” says Coe.

For instance, the show includes three paintings by Arthur James Emery Powell (1864-1956) of the long-settled, deeply cultivated valleys of Dutchess County.

All three portray winter landscapes, for reasons at least partially explained by Coe in a lecture she delivered at The Hyde on January 17.

Winter landscapes, she said, are “the visual equivalent of a poem by Robert Frost,” that most self-consciously regional of American poets.

Approximately one quarter of the paintings collected by Thomas Clark are winter landscapes, Coe noted, in part because winter is the quintessential American season.

Perhaps it’s co-incidental that Dutchess county was a hotbed of anti-federalism in the 18th century, and that places like Vermont, New Hampshire and Massachusetts have shown separatist tendencies at different times in our history. It’s no co-incidence, though, that the artists included in this exhibition chose to paint in places with strong regional identities. The landscapes these artists selected for their subject matter were chosen in part because they exemplified a region’s characteristic and recognizable qualities.

But of equal, if not greater importance, Coe said, those landscapes were the locations of artists’ colonies that flourished in the early part of the 20th century in places like Old Lyme, Connecticut; Cape Ann, Massachusetts; New Hope, Pennsylvania; and Woodstock, New York, as well as in Vermont and California.

The traditions of European and American painting were transmitted through those colonies and schools, producing the unique vision that is embodied in Clark’s collection.

“These artists were the students and sketching partners of the seminal figures in the development of Impressionism in America, such as William Merritt Chase, Willard L. Metcalf, John Henry Twachtman, and Robert Henri,” Coe said.

Thomas Clark, who lives in Saratoga County, has promised to donate this collection of paintings to The Hyde, and this exhibition is to some extent a celebration of that gift.

“An Enduring Legacy: American Impressionist Landscape Paintings from the Thomas Clark Collection,” will remain on view at The Hyde through March 18.

The Hyde Collection is located at 161 Warren Street in downtown Glens Falls. For more information, call The Hyde at 792-1761.

For more news from Lake George, read the Lake George Mirror

Illustration: Arthur James E. Powell, American (1864-1956), Mid-Winter, Dutchess County, ca. 1920s, oil on canvas, 25 x 30 in., Promised Gift of Thomas Clark. Courtesy of The Hyde Collection

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