Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Hiking The Logging Roads Near Boreas Ponds

Not everyone who visits Boreas Ponds goes there to paddle. Some people just want to see the ponds and walk in the woods. But since the state has yet to create or mark any trails, what are hikers to do once they get there?

Last Sunday, my girlfriend Carol and I scouted out the old logging roads in the vicinity in the ponds. The next day I went back alone and hiked a loop around the ponds with side trips to White Lily Pond and the headwater pond of the Boreas River.

I rode my mountain bike to the dam on Boreas Ponds, as allowed under the interim-access plan, so I’ll use that as my starting point in the description of my itinerary. If you start your hike from the parking area on Gulf Brook Road, you’ll need to add 3.6 miles to the distances.

Once at the dam, spend some time admiring the view across the water toward the High Peaks. On the logging roads, you won’t find comparable views. There are also good views to be had from the site of the lodge torn down earlier this summer, but the state has temporarily closed the site while it is reseeded. Once it reopens, you can reach it by turning down a driveway just before the dam. You will be able to find even more views by following a short path from the lodge site to the shoreline of Boreas Ponds.

The lodge was built by Finch, Pruyn & Company as a corporate retreat. In 2007, Finch, Pruyn sold its timberlands to the Nature Conservancy, which sold 65,000 acres to the state. The Boreas Ponds Tract was acquired this year.

From the dam, you can hike to White Lily Pond or the headwaters of the Boreas. Either one requires an eight-mile round trip. If you go to both, the round trip will be 12.4 miles. Another option is to do what I did: a 13-mile loop hike, with side trips to both destinations.

Remember, that’s in addition to seven miles of mountain biking. But don’t be put off by the distances. For the most part, you’ll be traveling on well-maintained and hardened logging roads, with easy grades. This allows for fast, easy walking. If you normally hike two miles an hour, you might average three miles an hour. Most of the roads are shady, to boot. Expect to come across tracks of moose and other wildlife as well as evidence of past logging operations such as gravel pits, skidder roads, and clearings.

After crossing the dam, follow the road north. It parallels the east side of Boreas Ponds, but the water is too far away for a view. Be sure to stay on the main road. You’ll pass side roads on the right at 0.15 miles and 1.3 miles from the dam. The second is reached just after crossing Snyder Brook on a bridge.

At 1.75 miles, you reach a fork with another good road. If going to the Boreas headwaters, go straight. If going to White Lily Pond, turn left.

Boreas headwaters. Continue on the same logging road for another 1.25 miles, until reaching a junction with another good road. This is 3.0 miles from the dam. Bear left here, heading downhill at a compass bearing of roughly 340 degrees (assuming your compass is adjusted for true north).

The road has several bends, but it trends west and northwest. Whereas the first road traverses a typical Adirondack forest with lots of hardwoods, this road passes through a spruce-fir forest, lowland boreal habitat. There is no canopy, so wear a hat and bring sunblock. The absence of a canopy affords occasional views of the North River Mountains and Allen Mountain.

At 4.0 miles from the dam, you come to a lovely pond where the Boreas River begins its long journey to the Hudson River, though here it is a mere trickle. The divide between the Hudson and Lake Champlain watersheds lies less than a quarter-mile north of the pond. The waters on the other side feed the Ausable Lakes.

The old road notwithstanding, the pond sits in a wild landscape rarely visited by people. The southern end of the Colvin Range is visible to the northeast. Mount Marcy and Mount Haystack, two of the tallest of the High Peaks, can be seen toward the north peeking over the treetops. The water level has been raised a bit by a beaver dam, and on the other side of the road you can see a beaver lodge next to a wet meadow. If you walk beyond the pond, the road soon peters out, but turning around, you have a good view of Boreas Mountain.

White Lily Pond. This trip will be described from the junction that lies 1.75 miles from the dam. If coming from the dam, turn left. If returning from the Boreas headwaters, as I did, turn right.  This road also features an open canopy, with occasional views of the North River Mountains and Allen Mountain. It descends to a wetland, reached 0.4 miles from the junction, with a view toward the Colvin Range. In another half-mile, you come to the Boreas River, which flows under the road in a culvert. Here the river resembles a small pond filled with dead trees and boulders.

Soon you begin the steepest climb of the day. At 1.5 miles from the junction, you reach a height of land. At 1.7 miles, you come to a clearing on the left. The road bends sharply to the right and heads approximately northeast. Be careful, because if you follow the road you’ll be hiking away from White Lily Pond.

According to the USGS topographical map (Mount Marcy), you should find a four-way intersection at this spot. Yet it doesn’t look like an intersection. If you walk left through the clearing, though, you’ll find a woods road that is not as hardened as the one you have been on.

Follow this road less than a tenth of a mile to a junction with another woods road. Take a very sharp right and follow this overgrown road three-tenths of a mile to a large grassy field, reached after crossing two small brooks (or dry beds) and a gravelly open area.

Once at the field, walk through the grass/bushes, heading to the northwest corner of the clearing, and look for a discernible footpath.  Marked by blue surveyor ribbons, it leads in a tenth of a mile to the south shore of White Lily Pond, where you’ll enjoy a nice view of Allen Mountain.

The pond’s GPS coordinates are: N44º 02′ 30.08″, W73º 56′ 00.55″.

Loop hike. If you want to do the loop, return to the grassy field and then retrace your steps 0.3 miles to the junction of the two woods roads. Turn right. You’ll be roughly paralleling the west side of Boreas Ponds (again, no views), passing through woods and several grassy openings. Stick to the obvious road or path. Two miles from the junction, you cross White Lily Brook on a good bridge. Shortly after, you reach a junction with a hardened logging road. Turn left. In another 1.1 miles, you come to a junction with Gulf Brook Road. If you biked to Boreas Ponds, take a sharp left here to return to the ponds, reached in a mile. (If you plan on doing the loop, you could leave your bike at the Gulf Brook Road junction to save time.)

The map of my hike, linked here at Adirondack Atlas, should help you visualize the hiking possibilities.

Just a closing thought: the state Department of Environmental Conservation might consider creating spur trails off the Boreas Ponds circuit to provide views along the way. Otherwise, the loop is short on scenery.

And one more thing: the “roads” on maps of the property are not always recognizable as roads. This could have an impact on future planning. For instance, the local towns want horse wagons to operate on the “Outer Loop” roads. In its current condition, however, the Outer Loop is not always passable. Willie Janeway, executive director of the Adirondack Council, also has walked much of the Boreas Ponds Tract and found some of the roads to be non-existent or long overgrown. He calls them phantom roads.

Photos by Phil Brown. Top: Boreas River headwaters. Middle: Northern tip of Boreas Ponds, where the river enters Third Pond. Bottom: White Lily Pond.


Phil Brown

Since 1999, Phil Brown has been Editor of the nonprofit Adirondack Explorer, the regional bimonthly with a focus on outdoor recreation and environmental issues, the same topics he writes about here at Adirondack Almanack.

Phil is also an energetic outdoorsman whose job and personal interests often find him hiking, canoeing, rock climbing, trail running, and backcountry skiing.

He is the author of Adirondack Paddling: 60 Great Flatwater Adventures, which he co-published with the Adirondack Mountain Club, and the editor of Bob Marshall in the Adirondacks, an anthology of Marshall’s writings.

Visit Lost Pond Press for more information.




20 Responses

  1. Justin Farrell says:

    Nice!
    Happy to see that you omitted the herd path recently publicized by a certain guidebook author…wink, wink.

  2. Mike says:

    Gee, doesn’t sound too interesting. And the clearings will be forest soon.

  3. Sarah Yeoman says:

    Thanks Phil.Hiked in last week with our Hornbecks and had a wonderful paddle.

  4. Curt Austin says:

    It so happened that I drove in on Monday, just to scope out the scene. Gulf Brook Rd is rougher than I expected, lots of rocks that I’d find difficult to avoid in the Prius. Narrow, too. I was on a small “dual purpose” motorcycle, an excellent vehicle for such a road – except it cannot carry a bicycle, or canoe. I shall return in different equipment.

    The “interim” parking area was bigger and more elaborate than I expected. A bulldozer was involved, and many truckloads of gravel. I think there is room for about 40 cars, and more in a nearby clearing.

    I also did not expect to see anyone, it being a post-summer Monday – and way down a road that would discourage folks in regular cars. I was very surprised to see about 20 cars (small SUVs and trucks, that is). The lure of new territory, I guess; that’s why I was there.

    Folks who brought bicycles could have parked out on Blue Ridge Highway or elsewhere on the way in; none did. None thought the incremental boost to greater wilderness was worth pedaling (never mind walking) an extra seven miles. Some will think that the behavior of this initial “horde” proves that people are awful. That Phil is awful. Nope, they were all good, reasonable people with excellent intentions.

    • Jim S. says:

      I don’t understand what point you are making? Why are people awful?

      • Curt Austin says:

        The folks who are advocating that the entire road be closed to cars and bicycles want to reduce human presence in order to maximize the wilderness character of this new state land. That’s a valid point of view, among others, but they promote it with strong words, even questioning the ethics of those with different visions. Me, for example, from John Warren himself!

        Their view boils down to this: Good people – true wilderness advocates – will park on the highway and walk the whole 7 miles. People who choose to drive the 3.5 miles to the interior parking lot (and perhaps bicycle the remaining 3.5 miles) are false advocates – awful. When I visited, there were 20 awful people, and no good people.

        The point I’m making is that there were, in fact, 20 good people. They each made a reasonable compromise between access and their appreciation of wilderness. As did I. And Phil.

        • John Warren John Warren says:

          You just love the straw man approach, don’t you Curt?

        • Jim S. says:

          I would like to see the entire road closed. If I were able to go there today I would drive up to the gate. My only real concern is protecting a beautiful spot so that it will eventually mature into a grand natural wilderness area. People who are drawn to it are not awful. I just feel that the level of protection is not ideal for what I have heard about the area.I would rather hear ideas than venom. I just think you are wrong, not awful.

        • Boreas says:

          Curt,

          Both good and “awful”(?) people will, if given a choice, nearly always take the path of least resistance. The point is, where should we put the gate?

        • Pete Nelson Pete Nelson says:

          I’m a co-founder and principle of Adirondack Wilderness Advocates. “Good” people versus “bad” people has nothing to do with our work, nothing to do with our proposal, nothing to do with anything I’ve written about Boreas. None of that kind of rhetoric, from any side, is the least bit useful.

          Our proposal stands on the values of science, of aesthetics, of the values of wilderness and of the Nature’s capacity to recover. We advocate and fight for those values. Period.

  5. Paul says:

    The top picture is a really nice one!

  6. Chaz Berg says:

    Logging roads?

    The Boreas properties were logged? By humans?

    …And all this time I was led to believe that the Boreas properties were pristine, untouched, unsullied, virgin forests.

    Chaz

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